"Awesome company and service. Friendly and professional staff. Abby helped schedule the appointment and explained the costs over the phone and reconfirmed by text message. We have an older sprinkler system with some of the controllers underground and surrounded by concrete in a very small space. (Yeah, that's how they did it in the olden days!) One of the controllers had finally given out and it looked almost impossible to fix. We usually do our own sprinkler repairs, but even we would not attempt this fix. We were unsure if the time had come to redo the entire sprinkler system. Richard arrived as scheduled and explained a work around that would not involve redoing the entire sprinkler system. We were so grateful for his help and the work that he did. Richard did an amazing job! We would highly recommend Sprinkler Medic."
The original part is an isolated, switched-mode converter; high efficiency. The LM317 is a non-isolated, linear regulator, and not suitable for 48V input. (A linear regulator with 48V input & 15V output to a 2W load would be dissipating almost 4W of heat; it would need quite a large heatsink adding, making it overall far larger than the original device, as well as wasting a lot of energy ...
I have put back together the entire gimbal already, and I would much rather superglue a plastic piece to the motor than fully disassembling the gimbal again and replacing the motor entirely. I am also looking for replacement Philips 1 screws for the gimbal internals. does anyone have the specs on the screws?
Repair Service: Replacing the LR arm axis was honestly a relatively easy repair. After replacing the arm, and powering up the gimbal does its vertical and horizontal tests, but the roll motor "snaps" to ~-45* offset and doesn't move. The roll motor "buzzes" lightly and stays engaged, providing resistance to the touch.
You can try replacing it. I'd use a 2A standard diode. The leads and body look too fat for a simple 1N4001 to 1N4007 range. Also, are you sure it's the problem? Is this the switch by the driver's left knee? To toggle the dome light from always-on to off to on-when-door is open? Or the door switch.
Aren't you replacing both the camera and gimbal, I've always seen them sold together as one component ? This would seem easier then just replacing the camera by itself.
'Replacing the mainboard' requires re-soldering the motors to the tiniest solder points there are and working with the tiniest connectors known to man. It's not a trivial thing to do, not possible at all unless somebody's really good with a soldering iron.
I have a Definitive Technology compact subwoofer that went belly-up and started buzzing constantly instead of producing any sound. After research, I decide to try replacing the primary 6800uf 80v capacitors . After replacing the caps, the behavior has changed, but not really for the better...
